After 40 nobody is young, but one can be irresistible at any age….Coco Chanel
Once a rebel. Always a rebel…Well, maybe not! Once a rebel. Always a free spirit. I think that is more apropos as we ‘mature.’ And that free spirit has shown through in each decade, especially in how we dressed and expressed ourselves.
The decades are easily distinguished by a catwalk stroll down memory lane where fashion has an indelible imprint on the times. In the 60s, the hippy vibe – flowing dresses, floppy hats, tie-dye, Mexican peasant blouses, and free love. Or, across the pond, the 60s London vibe – short shift dress, short hair, Peter Max, and the Beatles. (Above all, at this time, permission to break out of the fashion norms.) The 70s, from flares to bell sleeves. Maxi Moroccan embroidered shearling coats, over hot pants or a mini skirt and a silk satin shirt, barely buttoned. To me, the 70s continues to be one of the most stylish decades. The 80s, big hair, big shoulder pads, Studio 54, and Cindy Lauper. The 90s, Calvin Klien, Georgio Armarni, the pared-down, stylish executive uniform. Yes, please, and thank you.
Fashion is liberating, and the decades above, especially the 60s and 70s, were incredibly liberating on multiple levels. We also felt vibrant and alive. Yes, I know most of us throughout these decades were not only vibrant but young. We were experimental. And as we traversed the decades, we were establishing our style, and along the way, we developed a look that worked for us. We shopped certain stores for our favorite brands and became comfortable. Maybe tossing in a trend or two to stay trés courant.
Ageism in fashion
Then, ‘at a certain age,’ the roadblocks start to pop up. At first, the detours are subtle and infrequent. You’re in one of your favorite stores, and the last few times, you have found that most of the merchandise and the department looks a little too trendy for you. A salesperson suggests another department that might be more appropriate. Well, it’s not. The more ‘appropriate’ section is very matronly and laking a style that you are more accustomed to. Welcome to the Ageism Zone of fashion.
Our personal shift in style does not arrive overnight. We cannot deny that our bodies are changing or that what we once wore – no longer feels or looks quite right. And we start adding new items to our closet. Now, I’m not talking here about “dressing appropriately” for our age. I disdain the phrase – Age appropriate. I’m talking about dressing with personal style. The decade you were born in has nothing to do with the fact that you have a love of fashion and want to look good. No matter your body type or age.
Unfortunately, the majority of clothing aimed at mature women is frumpy and boring. The lion’s share of the pieces consists of unflattering tailoring, elasticated waists, and lots of layers. You might as well wear a sign that says, yes, I am hiding my body. You do not have to hide your body away and look like a frump. Actually, your timing is good to have a ‘full-figured body.’ There are full-figured women on the runway and in advertising today than ever before. Mature bodies should not be hidden away. A curvaceous body should be celebrated. No matter your body type, find and accentuate what is fabulous about your body. Maybe it’s your waist, your breast; perhaps you have a great pair of legs. Emphasize your best features.
Vintage Dior is coveted for its glamorous, nostalgic aesthetic. Vintage diamonds are unique and special and celebrated as such. A vintage wine is worth a fortune. Yet the vintage woman remains overlooked and sidelined.
Hopefully, we are experiencing a hint of change. It’s a whisper, but it is evident using a more mature and recognizable woman on the catwalk and advertising. Five years ago, at 80-years-old Joan Didion was announced as the new face of Céline. And it continues with Jane Fonda and Helen Mirren for L’Oreal. Charlotte Rampling for Nars lipstick, Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent, Lauren Hutton as the face of Calvin Klein lingerie, and Julia Roberts continuing as the face of Lancôme.
London based fashion editor and blogger Alyson Walsh has a few thoughts about fashion and aging. “The majority of women want to look good, regardless of age… I am 53 and want to look healthy, stylish, and modern, not younger. And I want to be relevant, even with my wrinkles. We are important role models for younger women, and I love looking to older women leading the way. Finally, some brands are talking to me, but it took them a long time to catch on to the power of the silver spend.“
Follow the money
Several years ago, Bank of America Merrill Lynch released the “longevity revolution” report on the “silver economy.” The study found that the average wealth of 50-plus households in the United States is $765,000; the average for 50-plus households in Britain is £541,000 (about $690,000), and it’s £723,000 for ages 60 to 64. That is a lot of spending power and adds to the growing voice of women that refuse to be overlooked and handed frump instead of fashion.
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When you think about how many women are continuing to work beyond their 60s, demanding that fashion keep up with their needs. This new market class of 60- and 70- and 80-year olds with disposable incomes and an independent spirit are ready to spend some money. It’s time for fashion and designers to take notice and fill the void.
“For too long, the fashion and beauty industries have been bewilderingly resistant to recognizing just how fashionable and stylish the generation of older consumers are and want to remain,” Diane Kenwood, an ILC trustee, told The Guardian. “The potential of these consumers is huge, and it has been shamefully sidelined. I do, though, sense a shift in attitudes starting to stir, and I’m hopeful that change will gather momentum.”
Recently, Allure took a brave, progressive step in declaring that they will no longer use the term “anti-aging.”‘ Their statement revealed that changing the way we think about aging starts with changing the way we talk about aging. Whether we know it or not, we’re subtly reinforcing the message that aging is a condition we need to battle. It’s not a battle. It’s a re-education of perception and how we approach the aging process.
Calling all free spirits.
How do you feel when you look in the mirror? Do you think, “hey, looking good,” or who are you? I hope you’re in the looking good column. We all love that feeling of knowing when we look good, and it should not be saved just for that special day. When you are heading out for errands, make an effort to leave the leggings or sweatpants at home. There are some exceptional slip-on pants, with an extra-wide waistband, maybe four inches wide. They have a straight leg and fit really well. Yup, you’re looking good in these. Channel Marie Kondo. She’ll help you wade through your closet and eliminate any frumpy looks that might have crept in.
Here are three fashion blogs with three totally different looks for 40s through 70s. Southern California casual, un femme d’un certain age. Susan Blakey will take you on a weekly tour of whats comfortable, colorful and chic, all with a French accent! Athens, GA, is home to Beth Djalali and Style at a certain age. The Look – preppy meets style. Beth is a spokesperson for Talbots and a recent guest on the View. Fashion Should be Fun and Dawn Lucy is the perfect guide. Her urban style fits right in with her Northern California vibe.
How we present ourselves should be a frame of mind, not an age. “Young can be a 70-year-old with a cheeky smile and a quick wink; old can be a 21year-old who is board with a smirk!” As it relates to fashion, the concept of ‘young’ points to being relevant and adaptable, excited about newness (in all things), and having fun. Keep your frame of mind youthful, and your attitude will follow.
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5 Comments
Sandra Axelrod
November 8, 2020 at 10:10 amSO TRUE😭
Dawn Lucy
October 28, 2020 at 5:01 amOh I can’t thank you enough for mentioning me! Yes to everything you said in this article!!
Oxox
Dawn Lucy
Leslie Martel
October 27, 2020 at 12:34 pmLove Loss and What I Wore…my all time favorite!! You can get the play and enjoy the read!
Great column, Kate! Now if I only had someplace to wear all my fun resort clothes I love!
Stacey Conti
October 26, 2020 at 9:37 amGreat blog, Ms. Fashion Icon
Deana
October 26, 2020 at 8:19 amEnjoyed once again, Kate. If we ever get back into the theater, I want you to be in a readers called Love, Loss, and What I Wore. Check it out on YouTube!!!!!